Sewing - New Look 6242

New Look 6242 Misses corset top with variations, Wide leg pants or full skirt

I like dressing up, and I like making my own costumes. We were invited to a 1980s themed fancy dress party and having looked at my options I decided that I was going to be the Princess of Power! But then I found out that the birthday girl was going to be She-Ra, so I switched out to Tinkerbell.

Fortunately I could still use the same corset pattern, just adding a skirt part to it as part of the construction. This posed a few challenges, as did my choice of fabric, a shiny top-layer to the dress over poly-cotton and a cotton lining.

The shiny top-fabric was very challenging to work with, it split easily, and frayed badly. It also pulled threads very easily when sewing (I should probably have switched out to a sharper needle). I also had some trouble with the invisible zip, due to the splitty fabric. It worked out fine in the end though.

The New Look pattern was well written though, I knew exactly what it wanted me to do at each stage. Since this was my first time boning a corset I appreciated the detailed instructions. I traced off the corset patterns and then lengthened them all based on the waist-line to skirt length. I left the bottom of the skirt straight to begin with.

Once I'd sewn everything together, I drew a zig-zag hem on the bottom, sewed that, and then trimmed off the excess fabric so that the points could be pressed out.

One set of inexpensive wings and some sparkly shoes later, and viola!



Modifications

Other than lengthening the pattern pieces and then adding the zig-zag edging, the only major modification I made was that I did boning on the front center, front side, and side panels, and put the zip in the back. I understand why the pattern has it in the side though. I also ended up putting a dart in the top of both side panels so that the dress sat flush with my chest instead of sticking out. If I had made a muslin I would have known to reduce the side panels accordingly.

If I were to make it again

I don't like the shape of the front center piece, I'm not sure if it was my wonky sewing though! It seemed to bow upwards rather than running straight across.

I think I could make this pattern again quite happily, though I don't have a lot of call for wearing corsets these days! I might make the She-Ra version I was planning, as I could wear it to York Comicon next year.

Sewing - Simplicity 1458 Amazing Fit Dress

Simplicity are running a bloggers' challenge; there are four patterns and five categories in which sewists can participate.

I requested the patterns in the "newcomer" and "dressmaker" categories, in the hope that I would be able to make at least one of those successfully. I went back and checked the rules and realised that I've actually been sewing for too long to be considered a beginner! Oh well, I'm still going to make that skirt!

Aside from the excellent service I've received from Simplicity, I also find the patterns in both the New Look and Simplicity ranges to be easy to follow. I love the fact that the pattern sizes are stacked because it allows me to trace a pattern in one size at the waist, and taper out to a larger size at the hips, since I'm very much a pear shape! I didn't need to do that for this dress, though, as it comes with an option for a "curvy" bottom half!

In the dressmaker category the pattern is 1458 - Amazing Fit Dress.

I decided that I wanted something which would look interesting and fun, something I could wear to the office or to a nice event. Looking at the shapes in the pattern, I thought that using a contrast colour for the side panels could look really interesting, though it would mean that my seams would need to be matched up well! I chose pink and black because I like those colours (you might have guessed that, if you've seen my other makes!)

This has been an excellent learning project for me, as it's encompassed several firsts. I inserted my first genuinely invisible zip, I under-stitched my facings for the first time, and I used the blind hem foot to do the hem for the first time.

Sorry about the weird pose, I was sinking into the grass with those heels!

The fitting instructions in the patterns were very helpful, and allowed me to reduce the excess fabric both above and below my bust (I'm apparently a funny shape). I also took away a little more excess through the side seams to fit a little better at my waist/hip, tapering out to the bottom of the skirt.

I'm really pleased with the dress, I look forward to wearing it!

With hindsight, I may have made it a little more fitted across the waist/back than the pattern calls for, but with my shapewear underneath that won't be a problem.

I don't know whether I'll make another of these. The neckline is a bit higher than I would normally choose in a dress, but it does look great on. I've made this one quite fitted, so I could try a lighter or stretchier fabric and a less close fit. The option for sleeves is appealing as the autumn starts to make itself felt. The great thing about making your own clothes is that you can choose whether to make them fit closer, and exactly where to make the fit closer.